Katy Explains The Maths Behind The Perfect Zippy Pouch - a 2013 FAL Tutorial

Today, Katy from The Littlest Thistle is going to show us how to make perfect zippered pouches. I have been lucky enough to meet Katy in real life, and she is fun, interesting and generous. Don't be put off when her tutorial starts talking about math - and seemingly complicated math at that - you have all the calculating power you need on your cell phone or computer to lick this bit of math in an instant. And with Katy's help, you will be sewing prettier and technically complicated zippy pouches too. Read on.

Hi I'm Katy from The Littlest Thistle, and I'm here today with a FAL tutorial to help with an oft puzzled over conundrum - how to create a zippy pouch with a flat bottom and vertical sides.

So lets take a look at the 'traditional' zippy pouch, where you squish the sides down to meet the base, sew along a line and chop the extra off:

You can see the sides slope down to meet the base, which is not necessarily a bad thing, it's just that with patterned fabric with any kind of horizontal or vertical pattern you'll lose the effect with things wrapping oddly round the side.  The angle of the sides depends on how far up the seam you go before stitching the line across, and it's not easy to see what the effect will be until the pouch is turned through.

The next option is to cut a square out of the bottom corners of the rectangles you're using to make the sides.  You sew the sides and base together, leaving the square openings free, then you squish the sides down to meet the base again, but this time you have a cut edge to sew along the seam allowance for:

You can see the sides are at less of an angle, but they're still not vertical.

Now I do have to break the news to you that there's maths involved in the ultimate solution, good old Pythagoras and his theorem in fact, sorry!  The good news is, it's easy, and you can do it on the calculator on your computer :oD

Taking the 2nd example from above as a starting point, we're going to use the cut out corners method, but instead of vertical sides on the fabric we start with, we're going to angle it up to the top.  By doing this, when the right angled triangle at the side is folded round and the base is folded up, they will meet to push the front out, leaving the sides vertical.

A right angled triangle is one where the side and the base are at a 90 degree angle to each other, or thinking about a clock face, the big hand (side) is at 12 and the small hand (base) is at 3.  We need a right angle between the side and the base to keep the base flat otherwise you would end up with a rocking pouch!

Because we're using a right angled triangle, to work out how to get the height and the depth we want we need to use Pythagoras:

In the diagram above:

a = the height we want the pouch to be + seam allowance top and bottom
b = half the depth we want the pouch to be (as there is a front and back) + 1/2 seam allowance
c = ?

Pythagoras says:

a² + b² = c²

So since I've decided that I want a height of 7 1/2", a depth of 4 1/2" and a seam allowance of 1/2" I get:

a = 7 1/2 + 1/2 + 1/2 = 8 1/2
b = 2 1/4 + 1/4 = 2 1/2

c² = (8 1/2)² + (2 1/2)² = 78 1/2  (that is, c² = 72.25 + 6.25 = 78.5)

c = √(78 1/2) = 8.86 which we round to the nearest 1/8 inch, making 8 7/8  (8.875)

(** For those who have forgotten a few math things: c² means c multiplied by c. When you know the value for c²  you then have to take the square root of that value to get c and you can do that by putting the value of c² into your calculator and hitting the square root button that looks like this:  √. The calculator will tell you the square root and you can check by multiplying that number times itself to see if you get the c² number you started with.)

Are you still with me?  I hope so...

In the diagram above, there are some unlabelled measurements, so for the depth to work correctly the bit below c must be the same length as b, ie 2 1/2".  The width of the pouch is entirely up to you, but I went for 10".

If you are going to create your pattern using paper and pencil, I suggest you draw the triangle sides on a separate piece of paper with side a vertical and side b horizontal to ensure you have your right angle, then you can connect the 2 and double check that c is correct by measuring it.  Once you're happy that you have all the right measurements, cut them out, and tape them to the main body.  Gridded paper, like graph paper, can be really useful for this kind of thing.

If you want to use a program like Illustrator to create your pattern, as I did, I suggest you also draw your triangle with a vertical and b horizontal, joined by c, then group the lines together and rotate the shape until c is vertical.  Using the grid functions available on most drawing programs should help ensure that your measurements are correct, and that you have managed to get c vertical

Here are a few step by step shots to show you how the construction works:

Front of pouch piece cut out

Having added the zips, I'm now constructing the pouch.  Note that the cut out bits are unstitched

Stitching the corners closed

Finished front on (that left side is vertical, honest!)

Side on shot

This actually allowed me to tick off one of my Q3 finishes, so thanks for helping me out with that Leanne!

And thank you Katy! 

Don't forget to link up your Q3 finishes - the Q3 post-quarter link is open here and it will close at midnight MST, October 7, 2013. And if you still have some UFOs I hope you will join us for Q4 of the FAL, Q4 FAL lists can be posted starting on October 8.

Anna's Quick and Easy Sewing Machine Cover - a 2013 FAL Tutorial

Today, Anna from Hoot'n'Haller, is sharing her tutorial about how to make a quick and easy sewing machine cover. My sewing machine really needs a cover, I wonder if your's does too. It seems that I am constantly putting off making things for my own sewing room - I might have to fix that this weekend. Anna shows us how simple it is to make this sewing machine cover, read on.

Hi everyone! This is Anna from HootnHaller. I am so excited to share a tutorial today for a quick and easy sewing machine cover. I have been meaning to make a cover for my machine for over a year, but something else always takes precedent. Recently, I have been learning a lot about the maintenance of sewing equipment and now I completely understand the importance of keeping my machine away from added harmful dust! This sewing machine cover is meant to be a super fast project so that you can squeeze it in between your many other sewing projects.

Supplies
Fabric
Flexible ruler
Ribbon (at least 4 feet)
Basic sewing supplies

Instructions
Before you begin your cover you will need to take three measurements of your machine. First, determine the width of your machine.

Second measure from the bottom of the front to the bottom of the back, going over the machine. See the photo below for more clarity.

Third, determine the height for the side ties that will hold the cover onto the machine. I chose to place my ties 7" from the table.

The measurements for my machine were 18.5" x 30". The next step is to make a "quilt top" that meets the measurements you took for your machine. You can make your sewing machine cover with elaborate patchwork or even choose to use the whole cloth method. Since my sewing machine is set up in my bedroom, I chose to create a simple patchwork top that would fit in well.

Next, cut a piece of fabric to the same dimensions as your top. This side will most likely face the inside of your machine - though you could definitely make your machine cover reversible! Layer the top and backing right sides together.

Cut your ribbon into four sections, each at least 12" long. Go back and double check the measurement you took earlier for the placement of the ties. Use a ruler to measure your determined distance from the end of the cover. Place the ribbon in between the two layers and pin in place. You will do this four times - twice on each of the long sides of your machine cover.

Place pins around the perimeter of your machine cover. Mark a 3-4" section at one of the ends where you will not sew. This gap will be used to turn your cover right sides out. Sew a quarter inch seam around the perimeter.

Clip the corners to eliminate bulk from the seam allowance. Now, turn your project right sides out! Use a blunt object object, such as a pen, to push the corners out. Give your project a good press, make sure that the seams are pushed out and even.

Topstitch around the edges of your cover using a one-eighth inseam allowance. You will probably want to pin the turning hole shut to ensure that you stitch through both layers. Once you have finished the top stitching you have a completed sewing machine cover. Tie it onto your machine and enjoy!

I hope that you liked this tutorial and that you will cover up your machine to keep it safe from dust!

And thank you Anna! 

Don't forget to link up your Q3 finishes - the Q3 post-quarter link is open here and it will close at midnight MST, October 7, 2013. And if you still have some UFOs I hope you will join us for Q4 of the FAL, Q4 FAL lists can be posted starting on October 8.

His & Hers Reversible DSLR Camera Strap Cover - a 2013 FAL Tutorial

Today we have a lovely tutorial from my friend Jennie, who blogs at Clover & Violet. I have to tell you I feel like I picked tutorials for this round of the FAL of things that I really need to make just for me. I am already trying to decide which fabrics I will use when I make one of these camera straps for my own camera. I hope you enjoy it too.

Hi, I'm Jennie and I blog with my mom over at Clover & Violet.  I want to thank Leanne for letting me share this simple camera strap cover tutorial with you!

I am often inspired to make things by things I like that don't quite fit my purpose.  When I first bought my DSLR camera a couple of years ago, I splurged and purchased a handmade camera strap cover with a pretty blue ruffle on it.  While it served its purpose, my husband felt awkward carrying it around while we were on vacation, taking photos at the beach, and especially if he went somewhere without me!  However, the cover slipped onto the strap, so it was a pain to remove too.

Hopefully this will greatly improve our photo taking experience...a reversible, easily removable, His & Hers Camera Strap Cover:

Supplies:

• 12 - 2 1/2" x 5" rectangles for patchwork - I used Coquette by Chez Moi for Moda
• or other patchwork of your choice measuring 5" x 25"
• 2 - 3 1/2" squares printed fabric
• 5 1/2" x 25" strip Moda Cross Weave in gray
• 2 - 3 1/2" squares Cross Weave
• 1- 5" x 25" strip Pellon Fusible Thermolam
• if Thermolam isn't available, Fusible Fleece or a thinner batting will work just fine {you can even use a double sided fusible web to stick your batting in place}.
• 30" package of 5/8" Sew-on Velcro

Note:  Read all directions before beginning.  All seam allowances 1/4", unless otherwise stated.

 1.  Sew the 2 1/2" x 5" rectangles together to form one 5" x 25" strip of fabric.  Following the manufacturer's directions, fuse the Fusible Thermolam to the wrong side of the patchwork piece.  Quilt as desired - I used the scallop stitch on my sewing machine to create some fun texture.

2. Optional: Memory card pocket with Velcro {my pretty camera strap cover came with a memory card pocket...that a brand new memory card fell out of, as a result, I've added a closure to this one so that won't happen again!}

Cut a 2" strip of  in half lengthwise.  Sew one half of the Velcro to the right side of one patchwork square and one Cross Weave square.  Sew the squares right sides together, leaving an opening opposite the Velcro.  Turn right sides out.  Sew the remaining Velcro 4" from one edge of each side of the cover.  Place the pocket on top of the strap and sew in place, 1/8" from the pocket edges, sewing the opening closed at the same time.

3.  Place the strap pieces right sides together and sew along the long edges, back stitching at the beginning and end of the seams.  The Cross Weave should seem a little bunchy because it is 1/2" wider than the patchwork.  This is so the patchwork portion will not show at all on the "His" side of the strap.

4.  Turn the strap right sides out and carefully fold under 1/4" on each end.

5.  Sew 1/8" around the entire camera strap edge.

6.  Sew one 24 1/2" piece of Velcro to the patchwork side of the strap.

7.  Sew the other 24 1/2' piece of Velcro to the Cross Weave side of the strap.

Then Velcro your cover around your camera strap and you're all set!  Thanks again to Leanne for having me!


Thank you Jennie!

Don't forget to link up your Q1 finishes - the Q1 post-quarter link is open and it will close at midnight MST, April 7, 2013. And if you still have some UFOs I hope you will join us for Q2 of the FAL, Q2 FAL lists can be posted starting on April 8.

Adrianne's Oven Mitt - a 2013 FAL tutorial

When Adrianne from On the Windy Side asked me if I would like a tutorial for an easy to make and fun to use Oven Mitt, I said of course. When I saw the tutorial, I immediately started thinking about which fabric I would use to make one of these excellent oven mitts for myself, and I bet you will too. Read on, this is a fun and easy project.

I'm really excited to share this tutorial for making your very own customised oven mitt with you. This is a pretty quick project, which I think is perfect for gifts - what could be better than an oven mitt customised to the recipient's kitchen?  It is also a solution to that gifts-for-guys dilemma we all face - it's something practical that a man who likes cooking will actually use. I personally really like this style of oven mitt because even if you don’t have any hooks in your kitchen, you can easily hang it over the handle of your oven, and it lets you use both hands.

To make this oven mitt, you only need a single fat quarter of your chosen feature fabric, which makes it a perfect project to use up those “just because” fat quarters – you know, the ones you bought just because you love the fabric, not because you had a plan for it at the time!

What you will need

- 1 fat quarter of your feature fabric
- 2 scrap pieces of fabric, 9” by 7”
- 34” by 11” piece of backing fabric
- 30” by 10” piece of low loft cotton batting
- 30” by 10” piece of Insul-Bright (insulated batting)
- At least 70” bias binding (2 1/4" or 2 1/2" wide)
- Freezer paper
- Printed template

Download templates here

Tips before you start

It's a good idea to read the full tutorial all the way through before you start.

When choosing fabrics for this project, bear in mind that they will be touching hot dishes.  For this reason, I would recommend that you stick to natural fibres like cotton and/or linen which can stand up to the heat. If you're not sure, think about whether you would iron the fabric hot and with steam.  If not, it's probably not suitable.

You need bias binding for this project so that it can go around the curved ends of the oven mitt - straight grain binding will not work. You can use store-bought bias binding or make your own.

If you use store bought bias binding, make sure it is 100% cotton, otherwise you run the risk of it melting on contact with hot dishes (I used poly-cotton binding on the first version of this oven mitt I made, and had to rip it off after I melted it with my iron...).

If you make your own bias binding, cut it the width that you would normally cut binding for a quilt.  I like a narrow binding, so I cut mine 2 1/4" wide, but with the extra layer of the Insul-Bright, it was a bit of a squeeze so 2 1/2" wide binding might have been better.

Finally, don't be put off by the inclusion of Insul-Bright in this tutorial.  I thought it might be expensive or hard to find here in New Zealand (we don't generally have as large a range of quilting goods available here as in the US, for example), but I found it easily and at several places.  I know it is definitely available at Spotlight in New Zealand and Australia, I believe it is available at Joann's in the US, and if necessary you can buy it online quite readily.

Step 1 – Preparing templates 

Print the template on A3 paper, making sure that your print settings are “actual size” or "scale 100%" – measure the 1” test square to check. Put a piece of freezer paper over your template, with the shiny side down, and trace around the template. Cut both piece 1 and piece 2 out of the freezer paper so that you have two freezer paper templates.

Step 2 – Preparing fabric 

Iron your fat quarter and fold in half, aligning the shortest cut edge with the selvedge. Square up the edges. Cut your fat quarter into two strips approximately 9” by 20”. Trim the selvedge off both pieces. Sew one scrap piece of fabric to each end of one of the fat quarter strips, and press, so that you end up with a strip approximately 9” by 34”. Press the fold line again to keep it crisp. 

Step 3 – Cutting pieces 

Put the freezer paper template for piece 1 on the longer strip cut from your fat quarter, aligning the straight edge of the template with the folded edge of the strip. Iron the freezer paper on to your fabric using a dry iron. Cut around the freezer paper template. Put the freezer paper template for piece 2 on the shorter strip cut from your fat quarter, aligning the straight edge of the template with the cut edge of the strip. Iron the freezer paper on to your fabric using a dry iron.

Cut around the freezer paper templates and remove.  You should now have a single version of piece 1, and two versions of piece 2 for the pockets.

Step 4 – Making your quilt sandwich 

Make a quilt sandwich in the following order, and baste using your preferred method:

 • backing fabric – right side down
 • Insul-Bright insulated batting
 • cotton batting
 • piece 1 – right side up

Step 5 – Quilting

Quilt as desired. For durability, I recommend that you quilt the oven mitt quite densely. Personally, I think this project is perfect for trying out a new free-motion quilting design. A small project is easier to manoeuvre and doesn’t take long to quilt even if the design is complicated or dense.  That said, I was in the mood for straight lines when I quilted this particular oven mitt, and I think they look good too!

Once the oven mitt is quilted, use the edge of the feature fabric as a guide and trim away the excess batting and backing fabric.

Step 6 – Add the pockets 

Take both of the pocket pieces and fold the straight edge over ¼” and press. Fold over another ¼” and press again to create a tidy hem. Top stitch along the edge of the hem on each piece.

Pin each pocket piece onto the quilted body of the oven mitt. Sew around the edge, about 1/8” from the edge. You won’t see these stitches once the oven mitt is bound, so don’t stress too much about making them perfect.

Step 7 – Binding

Pin the bias binding around the edge of the oven mitt, attaching it to the front side (with the pockets and feature fabric). Stitch in place using a quarter inch seam.

Finish the binding using your preferred method - I hand stitched mine down, but you could machine stitch it.

And you're done!

Thank you Adrianne!

Don't forget to link up your Q1 finishes - the Q1 post-quarter link is open and it will close at midnight MST, April 7, 2013. And if you still have some UFOs I hope you will join us for Q2 of the FAL, Q2 FAL lists can be posted starting on April 8.

New Leaf Bee Block Blog Hop - Ohio Star in Star

I was so surprised and flattered when Jan invited me to participate in the Daisy Janie Bee Block Blog Hop. I have been a long standing fan of Jan's beautiful fabrics which she sells under the Daisy Janie label - I have owned every line I think, and still have some of most. Daisy Janie fabrics are not just stunning, they are made from 100% GOTS certified organic fabrics. You can go here to read about the cotton industry and the benefits of supporting organic cotton - I highly recommend that you do.



Jan asked us to consider the concepts of turning over a new leaf, renewal, refresh, growth, change in direction for inspiration and to make a block with the fabrics she sent. Well, since I love stars and always see the stars as inspiring me to grow, to dream, to stretch and to be all that I can be, I made a star - this one is an Ohio Star. And I thought that having a star in star suggested even more growth and renewal too.

I did not have any organic solid fabrics on hand and realized I could not get any by online order in time. So I pulled out the Dapple Dot print from Jan's Shades of Grey line to pair with these beautiful bright New Leaf prints. I can already see these prints shining on a low volume background, maybe made of several scrappy low volume prints - can you?

Here is how you make this block which will finish as a 12" square (12.5" unfinished).



 The Ohio Star is a 9 patch block which uses quarter square triangle units (QSTs). For the large star you will need four 4.5" square background pieces, two 5.25" squares of the star point fabrics - you will see I made the star points from floret lemon and rhapsody lemon, one 5.25" square of the triangle inset fabric - I used floret raspberry, and one 5.25" square of background fabric. If you were not putting a star in the centre, then your centre would be a 4.5" square.



Pair one of the star point 5.25" square fabrics with the 5.25" square triangle inset fabric and the other with the 5.25" square background fabric with right sides together. Draw a line from corner to corner and then stitch 1/4" on either side of the line for each pair. Cut along the line and press. I pressed the seams towards the star point (yellow) fabrics.



You will have the above set of  half square triangles (HSTs).



Pair the HSTs right sides together so that the triangle point fabrics are kitty corner to each other and the seams line up with each other. Nest the seams so that they match nicely.



Draw a line from corner to corner, perpendicular to the seam line. Stitch 1/4" on either side of the line. Cut along the line and press open. I press this seam open.



The resulting four quarter square triangle (QST) units look like this. Take a minute at this point to trim them, if need be, to 4.5" square.



Lay out your Ohio Star as shown. The triangle inset fabrics are placed toward the centre square.


To make another Ohio Star to go in the centre of our large star, you repeat the steps above. Use four 1.5" squares of background fabric - I used fantail lemon, one 1.5" square for the centre square - I used floret lemon, two  2.25" squares of star point fabric - I used fantail raspberry, one 2.25" square of triangle inset fabric - I used foret raspberry, and one 2.25" square of background fabric. Make four QST units using the 2.25" squares in the same way as the large star. Trim those units to 1.5" squares, press and lay out the small Ohio Star.

And by this time you will have noticed the formula to make QSTs - add 1.25" to the finished size of unit you want to have - so for units that finish at 1" we start with 2.25" squares, for units that finished at 4" we started with 5.25" squares.



Sew together the three units of each row. Press. You can see I press the top and the bottom rows so the seams point to the outside edge and the centre row so the seams point toward the centre. Match the rows, nest the seams. and sew them together. Press. I press these seams open.



Here is your small star, at this point it is a 3.5" square.



Frame the centre star with 1" strips - I used more of the floret lemon. Press and then trim this unit down to be a 4.5" square.



Add the centre star to the perviously laid out big star and sew the rows. Press as for the small star and join the rows. Press again.



Admire your beautiful Ohio Star in Star block. I love how full of rich colour the New Leaf fabrics are.

Jan sent us a piece of each of the eight fabrics in the New Leaf line. Since I had only managed to use five of the prints for the Ohio star in star, I made one more block that used them all - an improv but not wonky log cabin with a beautiful fussy cut flower in the centre.



I hope you will have time to check out all the beautiful blocks made in the blog hop. The schedule is:

New Leaf Bee Block Blog Hop Schedule
Mon, 1/14 - Becky Moyer, My Fabric Obsession
Tues, 1/15 - Lynn Harris, The Little Red Hen
Wed, 1/16 - Candy Glendening, Candied Fabrics
Thurs, 1/17 - Holly DeGroot, Bijou Lovely
Fri, 1/18 - Melanie Thornton, Melanie Dramatic

Mon, 1/21 - Emily Cier, Carolina Patchworks
Tues, 1/22 - Rachael Gander, Imagine Gnats
Wed, 1/23 - Maureen Cracknell, Maureen Cracknell Handmade
Thurs, 1/24 - Leanne, She Can Quilt
Fri, 1/25 - Cindy Wiens, Live a Colorful Life

Mon 1/28 - Cheryl Arkison, Dining Room Empire
Tues, 1/29 - Jacquie Gering, Tallgrass Prairie Studio
Wed, 1/30 - Shanna Bailey, Fiber of All Sorts
Thurs, 1/31 - Katy Jones, Monkey Do

And for those of you doing the Fat Quarter scramble - if you have not been, go back to the previous stops on the blog hop, see the blocks and get the letters, and unscramble them so you can enter to win a fat quarter bundle of the New Leaf fabrics - my FQ scramble letter is E.

Best,

Leanne